New Page 4

Fly of the Month

Bob Ireton brings together his experience in fly fishing, aquatic entomology, and knowledge of fly tying techniques and materials, to design and tie durable and effective flies.

Volume 3, Issue 3 March 2002

STICK BAIT

Fly and Text by Bob Ireton
Photography by Bob Kimsey and Bob Ireton

Stick Bait? What the heck is that? Probably one of the better caddis larva imitations going. Read on, you’ll be glad you did!

Many years ago, in the Southern Appalachians, the residents had a very effective method of fishing for the native Appalachian brook trout. The mountain streams supported not only a good population of native ‘brookies’, but also lots of caddis. One species of caddis was fairly large, and would build its’ case from small pieces of wood, that looked like little ‘sticks’ glued together to form a portable home. The locals would gather these caddis larva, and remove their ‘stick’ cases. They would then put the caddis larva on a hook, and fish for the brook trout. It was a deadly bait back then.

There may not be as many brook trout left these days, and it probably is illegal to use real caddis larva for bait, but we can tie an imitation of this caddis larva that looks very life like. Not only does it work well for brook trout, but also for anything else that lives in the stream. The ‘stick bait’ is a very effective caddis larva imitation!

MATERIALS

Hook – Mustad 37160, 80200BR, 80250BR; Tiemco 2457, 2487; Daiichi 1120, 1130, 1150; or any hook with a curved shank. Size 10-14

Thread – 6/0 Brown

Weight – Lead wire the diameter of the hook shank

Outer Body – Cream latex body material

Under Body – Cream colored dubbing

Thorax – Dark hares ear dubbing

TYING STEPS

click on pictures for larger view

1 – Secure the hook properly in vice, and pinch down barb, if desired. Attach the thread to hook shank behind eye of hook, leaving the space of one hook eye between thread and eye of hook. Lay on a thread base with close wraps rearward, stopping above barb of hook. Tie a half hitch.
2 – Using lead wire approximately the diameter of the hook shank, wind on enough wraps to cover the middle half of the hook shank. Now build a sloping thread ramp on each side of the lead wraps, and also over the lead wraps. Do not put any head cement on at this time, because it will cause the latex body material to come apart.
3 – Tie in the latex body material. A 4 or 5 inch length should be enough. Half hitch.
4 – Make a dubbing loop, and after distributing the cream colored dubbing between and along the loop, spin it to lock in the fibers. Bring the working thread forward and half hitch.
5 – Palmer the dubbing forward to form the under body. Stop the space of 3-4 hook eyes behind eye of hook. Tie off, trim tag end, and tie a half hitch.
6 – Apply slight tension to the body material, and carefully palmer the body material forward, giving the body a segmented look.When you get to a point the space of 2 hook eyes behind the eye of the hook, keep tension on the body material, and tie off. When you are sure it is tied off securely, cut off the tag end. Add a few more wraps, and tie a half hitch.
7 – Dub a thorax, form a head, and tie a half hitch. Now do a whip finish, and cut off tag end of thread. Add a little head cement to only the thread immediately behind the hook eye. Now take your bodkin, and pick out the thorax dubbing material to form the legs.

The Buckeye United Fly Fishers, Inc is a non-profit corporation organized under section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code, incorporated in the State of Ohio for the preservation, conservation and wise use of our fishing waters and game fish; and to assist in the protection and improvement of our natural resources